In the winter of 2024, I went to Maison Margiela Tokyo in Ebisu. My purpose was to see the "Artisanal 2024 Exhibition Tokyo."

As I listened to John Galliano's own audio guide and gazed upon the overwhelming looks lined up in the dimly lit space, I felt a strange unease deep within my chest. Beyond the decadent theme of fashion's anatomy (post-mortem), there was a unique atmosphere that permeated the venue, a feeling that "this might be the last of Galliano's Margiela." I vividly remember the poignant sadness that filled the venue, as if I were witnessing the end of an era

Approximately two years have passed since then, and we've seen a continuous stream of news: the news of a two-year contract with Zara, the story of the cyclamen flowers Galliano gave Jonathan being used to decorate the front of a Dior show, the astonishing price increases of Dior during the Galliano era that followed, and now, his recent refusal to appear at the Met

I've jotted down some thoughts I've had over the past few months. They might just be my imagination, though

Introduction (Prologue)

In recent years, amidst the seemingly endless quagmire of the Palestinian-Israeli conflict, a groundbreaking manifesto has sparked debate worldwide: "The No-State Solution," written by Daniel Boyarin, a leading authority on Jewish culture

As the long-held ideal of a "two-state solution" (dividing a country into two) by the international community physically collapses, Boyarin makes a radical proposal: a vision of a borderless world in which we should abandon the very framework of exclusive nation-states and return to a rich cultural coexistence as "diaspora" peoples without borders

This political ideology coldly questions the way states select specific identities and exclude others with segregation walls. At first glance, it might seem like a geopolitical discussion in the Middle East, far removed from our daily lives. But what if this spirit of "stateless solutions," and the distortions in America's massive power structure that lie behind it, are actually connected to the biggest event in the contemporary fashion world?

There is a massive project currently being watched with bated breath by fashion enthusiasts around the world. It is a two-year limited-time collaboration between Zara and John Galliano, the unconventional genius designer who once led Dior

This is not merely a money game to generate buzz through fast fashion. It is the final stage of a cold, calculated chess game orchestrated by Galliano, who was once completely erased from history (cancelled) in 2011 by a system of powerful, wealthy elites who support Israel, after a long 15-year hiatus

Why did a master designer at the pinnacle of high fashion choose Zara, a brand for the masses? The answer lies in a complex interplay of his own intricate roots, the period of laundering hidden behind the anonymity of the Margiela brand, and the machinations of contemporary top creators who revere him as a "god."

Leaving aside the complicated political and historical entanglements of the upper echelons, what he is trying to demonstrate through the expression of clothing is, ironically, the embodiment of a "stateless solution" through clothing, the exact opposite of the exclusivism espoused by Israel

How did a genius who once lost everything manage to hack the power system and try to conquer the world with his designs? Let's unravel the raw business and art behind the scenes

Chapter 1: The American Power Structure and Galliano's "Curse of Gibraltar"

Why has the Palestinian-Israeli conflict dragged on for so long, with no end in sight? The answer lies in the deeply entrenched "pro-Israeli (Zionist) power structure" that dominates the upper echelons of American politics, economics, and entertainment. This includes the immense financial power of powerful political lobbying groups, the vast voting bloc of evangelical Christians, and the network of the wealthy that controls Wall Street and Hollywood. This colossal power system has the power to ruthlessly socially eliminate anyone who deviates from it or speaks out against it

In 2011, John Galliano, at the pinnacle of the fashion world, uttered anti-Semitic remarks and praised Hitler in a Paris café, incurring the wrath of this rigid power system and instantly destroying his career. The public dismissed it as a devilish outburst born from the delusions of alcohol and drug addiction, but tracing the trajectory of his life reveals a geopolitical background that cannot be explained by mere individual madness, a curse that could be described as the unique land of Gibraltar

Gibraltar, where Galliano was born and raised, is a British overseas territory located at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea, yet it is an extremely small, multi-ethnic and multi-religious area where the cultures of neighboring Spain and North Africa (Morocco) across the sea intricately intersect. Born to an Italian father and a Spanish mother, and raised in a very strict Roman Catholic family, Galliano's ethnic and religious identity was intensely nurtured within these narrow boundaries

Throughout Europe's long history, centuries of persecution and distrust have accumulated like sediment between the Catholic tradition and Jewish communities. Growing up in Gibraltar, a city with a dense border, the sense of "invisible boundaries" with others must have been unconsciously ingrained in him to the core

What further warped him were his memories of London, where he moved at the age of six. As "the son of poor immigrants from Gibraltar," he experienced intense discrimination, bullying, and overwhelming loneliness, growing up with a strong sense of inferiority and rebellion against the mainstream of society

Eventually, his genius creativity propelled him to the pinnacle of the fashion world, but there he found himself confronting a sophisticated system of the majority (the powerful and wealthy) that controlled vast capital and media behind the glamorous facade. Ironically, many influential figures of Jewish descent were among them

A twisted inferiority complex towards the majority who once discriminated against him, and resentment towards the powerful system that tried to control him. The distortion of his identity, which began on the narrow border of Gibraltar, exploded in the worst possible way, fueled by alcohol, in that choice of the most taboo words: "praising Hitler."

He spoke of a clear evil against human history and was punished. However, at the root of his motives lay a vivid reflection of the "complexity of roots" and "a twisted rebellion against power structures," which can be seen as a microcosm of international politics

Chapter 2: Margiela's anonymity and Jonathan's deification of the "God of Dior"

John Galliano, whose controversial remarks in 2011 completely erased him from the public eye of the giant LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), both politically and morally, needed a step to sharpen his creative edge again after his character itself was engulfed in controversy:taking up a position at Maison Margielaandcompletely leaving LVMH.

Martin Margiela has built a worldview where "the designer never appears in public (anonymity)" is an absolute DNA. By obtaining this ultimate "cloak of secrecy"—hiding his face and erasing his personal character—Galliano skillfully avoided public criticism. As exemplified by the legendary "Artisanal Collection" of 2024, he once again shocked the world with his overwhelming cutting technique and craftsmanship, and succeeded in "letting things cool down" over a decade

However, the true trigger for his resurgence, or rather, his "deification,"was Jonathan Anderson (Loewe/JW Anderson), who reigns supreme in the contemporary fashion world. Jonathan himself has roots in the ethnic conflict in Marfera, a fierce battleground of the Northern Ireland conflict in the 1980s and 90s, and his relationship with the overwhelmingly common people can be seen as a timeless camaraderie.

For Jonathan, Galliano's work for Christian Dior from 1996 to 2011 is not merely an archive of the past. It is the very essence of his own creations, his open "favorite," in other words, theabsolute "God of Dior"himself. Jonathan's persistent homage to Galliano's Dior in his collections and in public, and his continued promotion of its supreme artistry, is both a pure act of faith and a way of laundering (cleansing) Galliano's existence into a "mythical realm that should not be touched."

Jonathan's relentless deification has brought a real frenzy to the vintage market, resulting in "outrageous price increases."

When Galliano fell from power in 2011, billionaires, celebrities, and collectors around the world, fearing political and social damage (risk), disposed of or discarded their Galliano-era dresses and bags from their closets. In other words, the absolute number of high-quality archive pieces on the market was drastically reduced, buried in the shadows of history

Now, thanks to Jonathan's "deification," demand has exploded. Even vintage pieces showing signs of wear and tear are being bought up by Gen Z and wealthy collectors around the world, who are desperately offering huge sums of money

Ironically, even the current Dior (LVMH) doesn't deny the explosive rise in value of this "Dior god." This is because they, too, are benefiting from the cold, hard business principle that the more the value of Galliano's legacy (heritage) increases, the higher the value of their own brand itself becomes

And astonishingly, this drama of massive system hacking and deification has already crystallized into a single "material" object: my own LOEWE Small Newspaper Square Basket bag in paper and calfskin

The newspaper, Galliano's most iconic visual symbol and a cursed symbol representing his glory and scandals, has been quietly brought to the market byJonathan, who is capitalizing on the recent "sustainability boom" and environmental ethics trend by recycling real old newspapers collected from around the world.

They have hacked the system of the era, which no one can object to, with its "eco-friendly and clean justice," and woven a frenzied homage to Galliano, who was once nearly erased by the newspaper headlines of a scandal, behind that platitude. What would normally be nothing more than garbage (noise) in the form of information has been elevated to the highest level of luxury couture through the handiwork of artisans

Even the giant corporations that once cast him aside, concerned about the political lobbying at the top and the opinions of donors, are now calculatingly enjoying the benefits of the "vortex of deification" and the "frenzy of the vintage market" that Jonathan has orchestrated. Galliano has outmaneuvered the very system that once ostracized him, completely subduing it through the value of his past clothing

What exactly is deification? Of course, the person's own abilities play a role, but it's also about the behavior of those who aspire to be their successors, and the fact that there are people who worship them as gods that makes it possible

Chapter 3: Declining the MET and the Calculation of the Two-Year Limitation

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's (MET) plan for a spring 2027 retrospective exhibition of John Galliano's work was supposed to solidify his complete comeback. However, due to public backlash over his past anti-Semitic remarks and fierce opposition from Jewish billionaire donors, the plan was ultimately scrapped when Galliano's side "withdrew."

While the public viewed this as "a genius's downfall due to cancel culture," those familiar with the ruthless underbelly of the fashion business see it quite differently. There's a very high probability that this was a carefully planned "sophisticated promotional game" from the start, involving even those in power, such as Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour

It's impossible that Anna Wintour, arguably the world's most politically skilled negotiator, didn't anticipate the backlash from Israeli supporters. She had factored in all the risks of a major uproar, including prior negotiations with key Jewish organizations. As a result, Galliano reaffirmed his status as a world-renowned master, worthy of being selected for the MET, while also smartly securing the absolution of being a "considerate adult" by stepping down before ruining the museum's finances. Whether he went through with it or not, Galliano had won by maximizing media attention

And what lies ahead after this brilliant scandal controla creative partnership with ZARA, limited to two years.

Why did they set a clear deadline of "two years" instead of just dragging it out? There's a frighteningly calculated reason behind this

Firstly, the intense sense of "desire" (premium feeling) created by limiting the time period is an absolute necessity for maintaining the brand's deification. Secondly, this is the strongest risk management (exit strategy) for the currently escalating tensions between Palestine and Israel

The clientele of high-end luxury brands and political lobbyists are extremely sensitive to his past words and actions. However, the mass market (the general public) that ZARA targets around the world is not so concerned with the political context. What they want is the overwhelming sensationalism and design of "clothes by the legendary genius Galliano, available only now."

Even if political pressure from higher-ups resurfaces due to a worsening international situation, a two-year contract allows for a smooth termination before the business suffers a fatal blow

"To continue expressing what you love, you have to keep demonstrating consistently upward trends."

Having learned firsthand about financial hardship during his student days, Galliano skillfully navigated enormous political risks while playing the perfect game of chess to ensure the great success of his mass-market business

Chapter 4: Bias Cut in a World Without Boundaries

Galliano's signature style, which has captivated top celebrities and fashionistas worldwide, including Kate Moss's wedding dress, and is currently causing a frenzy in the vintage market, is the "bias cut."

This technique, which involves cutting the fabric at a 45-degree angle to the weave, causes it to move like a liquid, following gravity and enveloping the wearer's curves in the most sensual way possible. However, handling fabric that moves like a living thing requires skilled craftsmen to carefully sew it by hand and let it sit on a mannequin for days to settle. Bias cutting, which inherently requires the handiwork and enormous amount of time of a craftsman, is a technique that fundamentally contradicts ZARA's factory system, which prioritizes "ultra-fast, low-cost, mass production" using machines

That's why, when the actual items from this collaboration with ZARA hit the shelves, we'll get to see the results of Galliano's "serious calculations."

Will he hack ZARA's immense capital and cutting-edge production lines, succeeding in incorporating a "miraculous bias-cut pattern" into mass production and astonishing the public (a resounding victory for a genius and proof of his skill)? Or is it merely an ordinary cut that only *looks* like a bias cut, a two-year limited money game disguised only by flashy prints?

However, regardless of the answer, the essence he is trying to achieve through his clothing remains the same. He is, as a result, demonstrating through these garments the exact opposite of the exclusive nationalist ideology of Israel (Zionism)

The ideology of the state seeks to define itself by selecting a specific identity and "excluding" others through segregation walls and checkpoints. In contrast, what Galliano is doing with ZARA, a massive global logistics network, is to remove all boundaries of race, religion, nationality, and economic power, andto "make every ordinary person in the world the protagonist of his designs (beauty) equally.

This is the "complete de-individuation (democratization)" of beauty

Conclusion (Epilogue)

In 2011, John Galliano was nearly completely erased from history by the rigid power structure of those who supported Israel

The answer he arrived at after 15 years was not to pander to the rules of the elitist upper class that had once ostracized him. Instead, it was the most exhilarating survival strategy: to join hands with the general public around the world and, with their overwhelming numbers and purchasing power, to take over the world with his designs

Galliano was born in Gibraltar, a city on a narrow border where multiple cultures intensely intersect. His path has, coincidentally, embodied the very spirit of diaspora that Daniel Boyarin advocated in "Stateless Solutions": "to build a creative culture that transcends borders and is not bound by the framework of power as a nation-state."

Leaving aside all the complicated politics and historical entanglements at the top, everyone on the streets wears purely beautiful clothes and struts through a world without boundaries

On the day his clothes appear in ZARA stores, we won't be going to see a new fast-fashion collection launch. We'll be witnessing with our own eyes a "stateless solution" where a cursed genius hacks the world's power structures and shatters national borders with beauty

The answer to this epic chess game that has involved the whole world will be revealed very soon! I can't wait!